I learned to prepare cabbage years ago from my Indian mother-in-law, and though I've never seen her cook fennel, I expect she might treat it in the manner she does cabbage. In my usual American way I've drawn from that inspiration, then tossed the northern spices (coriander, turmeric and ginger) together with those beloved in the south (curry leaves and black mustard seeds). The fennel adds sweetness and pizzazz to the sometimes bitter and mellow cabbage—if a slight diversion from the expected family dish. My husband rolls his eyes as I stir, but he takes a taste anyway. You'll find fresh curry leaves at any Indian market, or if you live in a mild climate, purchase a plant so you'll have the fresh leaves available anytime.

Oct. 1, 2021, 11:50 a.m.

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