The leek is a national emblem of Wales, and legend has it that King Cadwaladr of Gwynedd ordered his soldiers to identify themselves by strapping the vegetable to their helmets in an ancient battle that took place in a leek field. We took the classic Potato Leek Soup, popularly found in British and Irish pubs, and added chunks of sand bass that my brother caught. It's sort of like a chowder, sans all the cream.

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