Zippy salsa tonnato (cold tuna sauce)
Salsa
This is basically a rustic pantry pasta sauce turned flavor-bomb condiment, and it's pretty versatile: It works as a dip (think bagna cauda or pinzimonio); or tossed with pasta and a little of its cooking water; or to sauce a plate of seared wax beans and assertive greens (such as arugula). I think it would also be the cat's pajamas spread on an open croissant, topped with sliced tomatoes and cheese, and put under the broiler to make an upscale tuna melt. <br /> <br />The trick is in cooking the jarred tuna with a heady mix of alliums, herbs, aromatics, and white wine. Like broccoli and cauliflower, its cruciferous cousins, radish has a natural affinity for anchovies and butter, so those get thrown into the mix as well. The result is complex and deeply flavorful even before it hits the food processor. Don't forget to reserve the oil the tuna was packed in for adding the pureé later. It adds yet another dimension of flavor.
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