If most people told you that what your kale was missing was just a few blobs of onion dip, you’d probably nod kindly and then just go back to eating greens in all your usual ways, forgetting that the conversation had ever happened. But this kale isn’t just wilted like any old green—you sauté it quickly, with a lot of toasted garlic and chiles. Then you douse the kale in lemon juice—so the whole mess ends up spicy and loud and quite resilient, a place where swooping your fork through smokey trails of cool cream is welcome, even needed. Adapted slightly from <a href="https://food52.com/shop/products/2708-nopi-the-cookbook-by-yotam-ottolenghi-ramael-scully-signed-copy"><strong>NOPI: The Cookbook</strong></a> (Ten Speed, 2016).

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