So there I was on September 5 wondering why I wasn’t, like last year, meeting friends at the beautiful house we rented in Gascony. I had the late-summer farm stand remains of a week’s cooking in the vegetable bin and on the counter. The weather had turned crisp and I had just been browsing “Lulu’s Provencal Kitchen” anticipating the cooler weather and the promise of a daube Provençal. In the pantry was the last of the Maggi cubes I brought back from France. I’ve always been struck, from Olney’s book, by the way Lulu Peyraud seemed to make the most beautiful soups out of very little. Last year in France, after buying a distinctly beautiful little pumpkin in one of the markets, I made a late summer pumpkin soup for dinner one night. I had no pumpkin this year, but I did have carrots, a red pepper, a few slices of tomato and fresh sage from a neighbor's garden. That’s how this soup, a warming dish that brought back wonderful memories of a summer on the cusp of fall at a house deep in France’s most fabled food region, was born. <br />

Sept. 23, 2023, 10:21 a.m.

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