Inspired by some fabulous fries I had at Spring in Paris, these potatoes are matchstick cut, triple fried in goose fat (what's better than that!?) so they're super crisp, and seasoned with flaky sea salt and the zest of orange, lemon, and lime--a confetti of bright color and flavor that cuts through the fat and brightens and livens the whole thing up into the most unforgettable French fry.

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