When I crave Sri Lankan food, it is not the curries I desire—it is the mallungs (or mallums). The word mallung means "to mix up" and is a category of Sri Lankan dishes that feature shredded leafy vegetables, coconut, and spices, all cooked in a dry skillet or clay pot, and then finished with a couple of drops of lemon juice. The process of dry roasting produces vibrant green veggies infused with the aromas of coconut and spices, and brightened by the touch of lemon. Mallungs are one of the primary sources of vitamins for Sri Lankan folks: One or two mallungs are served with every meal and are accompanied by rice and different condiments. This one is one of my favorites.

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