In Northern California, there are a few unspoken rules. One is that you must never admit that you’re sick of lettuce. Which is why, on a recent trip to visit my folks, I had to whisper it to my mother. “Blasphemy! California greens are the best in the country,” she hissed, holding up a Mill Valley Beerworks menu between us so it might look to the server like we didn’t know one another. Unfortunately, he’d already overheard my complaint—but fortunately, he was from New Jersey, so he didn’t have our state citizenship revoked. He did take the opportunity to sell us on a lettuce-free salad, composed of smashed cucumbers and dressed with a bright soy vinaigrette. It was so delightfully harmonious in flavor, I haven’t been able to stop riffing on it since. My latest version of this salty, tangy, texturally magical cucumber salad not only punches above its weight—it wins every bout. To make this into a full-fledged dinner, toss in some tofu if you please, and serve over rice.

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