Mashed potatoes are one of those sides that I tend to overlook, or else drown in gravy, salt and pepper -- but I think this version has more than enough flavor to stand on its own. Sage adds a warm umami that's amplified by fragrant brown butter and crisped-up garlic, and the nuttiness from the brown butter echoes again in the slight nutty flavor from the creme fraiche. Use a potato ricer or a food mill for the lightest, fluffiest texture.

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