What Santibañez wants cooks to realize, he told me, is this: "There is a very important textural thing to guacamole -- we never really mush up the avocado. You want to feel everything." He crushes only enough of the avocado to warrant it consideration as a dip rather than a salad, but leaves the rest of the cubes intact, bathing them in the vividly flavored chile sauce, "a bit like salad properly dressed in vinaigrette," he writes. Recipe adapted slightly from <strong><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Truly-Mexican-Essential-Techniques-Authentic/dp/0470499559?tag=food52-20" target="_blank">Truly Mexican</a></strong> (Wiley, 2011).

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