Richard olney's chicken gratin
            
            Chicken second courses
            
            
            
        
      
      
    
  The foolproof chicken recipe to get you through winter is anything but bland, boring, and sensible. Note that, as Olney says in his headnote, "The acidity of the white wine and the lemon cause the cheese custard to curdle in the cooking, creating a texture that, personally, I find pleasant but may not please everyone." I've found that the extent of the curdling depends on the size and juiciness of the chicken (and lemon), the pan, and the length of cooking time, but it's always been delicious. Adapted slightly from <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Simple-French-Food-40th-Anniversary/dp/0544242203/tag=food52-20" target="_blank">Simple French Food </a>(Atheneum, 1974).
 
             
                     
                     
                    
                    
                    
                    
                
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