Before it broke the internet, avocado toast was the one thing my big brother Kevin made for us all the time. This was in the late '90s, before he moved to California and restaurants would, years later, use it as a crutch on their menus like beet salad with goat cheese. I remember the way an avocado half would make me full; even fuller when I'd smash roasted seaweed snack, sesame oil, and salt into it with a fork. Flecked onto a slice of white plastic bread, it was the most delicious way to satisfy those after-school hunger pangs.

Oct. 1, 2021, 11:49 a.m.

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