This is one of those fairly seasonless side dishes that I’m grateful to have in my repertoire – it’s versatile, it’s quick, and it’s dead easy. When it’s available, I love to use bright, lovely rainbow chard for the extra pop of color it adds to the dish, but you can use regular chard or even beet greens here. Adding the stems means nothing is wasted, and slicing them thin helps them cook up nice and tender. I usually serve this alongside a simply prepared piece of fish, but you could easily turn it into a meatless main dish by topping it with a fried or poached egg, or a crumble of feta or goat cheese.

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