Laurie Colwin altered her version or creamed spinach a bit from one served to her in Dallas during a literary festival by a cook named Betty Josey. "It was so good it made me want to sit up and beg like a dog," Colwin wrote. If you don't have one thing, you can make do—you don't want to keep cans of evaporated milk around just to use 1/2 cup in this recipe, any mix of cream and milk will work; you want to use Gruyère, great; you don't have celery salt, fine. Adapted slightly from <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Home-Cooking-Kitchen-Vintage-Contemporaries/dp/0307474410?tag=food52-20"><strong>Home Cooking</strong></a> (Harper Perennial, 1988).

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