Restaurants and recipes for hot & sour soup invariably use cornstarch as a thickener, but it doesn't have to be that way. Yes, cornstarch plumps up the broth, but in doing so puts a hazy, viscous layer between us and the sour, spicy sting we crave. Chang's version is thickened with egg instead and makes a number of other smart updates without compromising what we love about the classic. From <strong><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Flour-Too-Indispensable-Recipes-Savories/dp/1452106142?tag=food52-20">Flour, Too</a></strong> (Chronicle Books, 2013).

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