Rather than dumping in extra cream and salt at the end of making a soup, commit to adding more butter at the beginning, and the butter will carry and magnify its flavors. Note: This is a thin soup, which might surprise you if you're not prepared. If you're in need of thick comfort, just add more potato or don't strain it. We preferred it thin -- the swishy broth makes it feel more refined, and its intensity all the more surprising; it also makes it easier to guzzle from a mug, alone. Adapted slightly from <strong><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Good-Things-Table-Jane-Grigson/dp/0803259719?tag=food52-20">Good Things</a></strong> (Bison Books, 2006).

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