Growing up, we sometimes ate One Eyes for breakfast. You know, you'd cut out a hole in a piece of bread, crack an egg in its center, and fry the the whole thing til the egg was cooked and the toast crispy. Kind of brilliant, and, I thought, unique. Not so. Apparently, it just ran under a horde of other aliases: Egg In The Hole In The Bread. Hole-y Toast. Egg In The Hole. Bird's Nest. Toad In The Hole. Abundant and literal, and I'm sure there are more. By whatever name, the brilliance is in the simplicity. One Eyes take two things you'd normally eat at the same time on breakfast or brunch plates and marry them together as one. As it happens, I was thinking, recently, about the other objects on that breakfast plate and it occurred to me you could perform the same marriage on eggs and hash browns. The result is fantastic—homey comfort food disguised in a dramatic, attractive presentation.

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