The humble lentil soup is a wonderful thing to have in the back of the freezer on a chilly night. A few details elevate this simplest of meals: lots of dried herbs and warm spices, lots of tomato paste to keep the color from getting too brown, lots of greens (in this case, wild greens in the form of lamb's quarters or quelites), lots of lemon juice off the heat, and a thick, stewy consistency. Also, for the best texture and flavor, I always use French lentils (lentilles du Puy).

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