When my kids were little, I always made special food for Hallowe'en, whether it was blue mashed potatoes and green chicken or hot dogs baked in French rolls with bacon and cheddar, orange pumpkin bars for dessert. But kids grow up, and as the troops of midgets ringing my urban doorbell grew fewer and further between, I turned to grown-up parties with spicy sweet-potato soup. Hallowe'en comes in the narrow window when apples and plums are both in season, so I always make fall-window flan. This recipe owes its origin to French clafouti as interpreted by Julia Child as gratin de pommes in Mastering the Art of French Cooking,Volume Two. I've reduced the butter and flour combined the fruits and added flavorings.

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