To me, blood oranges, mint and feta cry out for a piece of lamb—and I happened to have a rolled belly in my freezer. Defrosted, unrolled, stuffed and re-tied, it was then braised in the oven in a bath of blood orange juice, beef stock and white wine, until it filled the house with its glorious perfume. As it was crisping in very high heat, I defatted the sauce, reduced it and finished it with a little mustard and a teensy knob of butter. The citrus-based sauce, zest and mint help cut through all the richness. Try this with a side of polenta and a crisp, endive salad.

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