It was our first cold weather Christmas. We ate this carpaccio with friends while decorating our Christmas tree. Outside we had some Tattinger chilling in the snow. The colours were sprightly, the dill was aromatic and the horseradish gave it a strong kick along. We may have created this for Christmas, but have found ourselves pulling it out any time we want an easy starter that can quietly squat in the fridge until it's needed. NB, for this to work, the fish needs to be spanking fresh.

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