This sauce is a classic from central Tuscany and known as Salsa del Valdarno, a variation of acciugata that uses capers in place of garlic. It's most often used to dress a thick, t-bone steak that's grilled over charcoal but left bloody in the middle. It's also a wonderful partner to cauliflower, in any way. I often toss the sauce with steamed or roasted cauliflower as a side dish, without the bread—but serving it on toast (as a crostone), turns this into a quick, satisfying-yet-light meal. You can also try the sauce spooned over eggs—boiled and halved, fried, scrambled or poached. Tuscans like it on fried beef or veal, too. For a quick and thrifty lunch, my husband's nonna used to stir it into spaghetti.

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