I love Nigella Lawson's recipe (in Feast) for Sake Steak. Over the years, I had altered the marinade and played with the sauce, but the time I decided to fiddle with the protein was the day of the disappearing dinner. I marinated the short ribs for three days until the texture of the meat had firmed up (what I now understand is a cure.) I had company arriving on an international flight and had planned the dinner to make for a quick prep after a long airplane ride. I put the short ribs on a hot (gas) grill, closed the lid, went into the kitchen to put the side dishes on the table, walked out to retrieve the short ribs 5 minutes later, and when I opened the lid to the grill, there was nothing left. Just ash. Incinerated. In the intervening two years, I've learned about curing and smoking meats, and here, I present a recipe for an appropriately fired up candied short rib. Nice over rice - but I will try it with buttered toasted fregola next time -a nutty pasta I picked up at Eataly.

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