Once a year it's worth the effort to de-choke a bunch of beautiful artichokes and slow-cook them with aromatics until they have absorbed every atom of flavor. This method is sometimes referred to as "barigoule" - this refers to the species of milk cap (Lactarius deliciosus) that was often included in the dish.
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<br />Pancetta's slight funk gives a surprising depth of flavor to the tangy sauce.
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<br />This is perfect picnic food, served at room temperature.
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