I got the idea of fried capers from a piece Amanda had some time ago in the New York Times Magazine. Then I received some tiny bottles of aged balsamico as a gift, ranging in age from eight to forty years, and I discovered what even a few drops of the syrupy eight-year-old could do for beets. White cheese started as an enrichment and color contrast. Finally I learned to dry seasoned kale to a crisp and delicate state and found that its earthy flavor complemented sweeter beets.

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