This Venetian classic of whipped cod calls for dried (unsalted) stockfish - somewhat confusingly, the Venetians call stockfish baccalà, which in the rest of Italy is salted cod. Dried stockfish needs to be soaked in water for 1-3 days before use, depending on the quality of the stockfish. You can sometimes find it conveniently pre-soaked and ready to use, which is where this recipe begins. You could also substitute salted cod although it will be slightly different from the traditional Venetian dish. Like many traditional recipes, there are a number of variations - you could poach the stockfish with some lemon and bay leaf instead of the garlic cloves; in a Venetian Jewish kitchen you'll find the stockfish is poached in milk and water. Garlic lovers may like to add finely chopped, raw garlic at the end for a kick. Otherwise, served with some slices of baguette or grilled white polenta, it needs nothing more other than perhaps a sprinkle of chopped parsley for some, some white pepper or nutmeg for others, and a glass of something sparkly in hand. This is the traditional recipe in its simplest form.

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