This is an Indian summer soup, a soup for the liminal season. Tart, crisp apples like Honeycrisp, Gravenstein, or Granny Smith are paramount. Equally good hot or cold, it's a smooth mélange of tart, crisp apples; celery stalks, leaves and all; anise-scented fennel, and all of it finished with a bunch of watercress, a fistful of fresh herbs, and a glug of heavy cream. It's all at once fresh and earthy, bright and comforting: the perfect soup for the transition from summer to fall.

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