If you’re looking for classic sautéed mushrooms, Julia Child’s no-nonsense method will coax you through all this—hot butter, dry mushrooms, and an uncrowded pan are the keys. <br /> <br />But say you want to cook a lot of mushrooms at once, really outrun the shrinkage. Or be less active in your cooking, and less hot. Alex Raij, chef-owner at Txkito, has a more scalable, meditative approach, with an equally compelling result. Using this much at once will probably make you squirm, but you’re not wasting it. This mushroom- and garlic-scented oil is as much a reason for making the recipe as the mushrooms themselves are. The oil will be a head start on more adventures—frying eggs or more mushrooms, searing greens or chicken thighs, mixing new dressings and sauces. Adapted slightly from <a href="https://food52.com/shop/products/2887-the-basque-book-a-love-letter-in-recipes-from-the-kitchen-of-txikito-signed-copy"><strong>The Basque Book</strong></a> (Ten Speed Press, 2016).

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